Steve Evans-Special to The Daily Times 

DENALI NATIONAL PARK, Alaska - Five climbers of the Cops on Top 1999 Denali Expedition; Keith McPheeters and Kent O'Donnell of Farmington; and Hank Bezema, Frank Stevelmans and Paul Kern of the Netherlands, are now in their sixth day of their assault on Denali. 

The team established advance base camp at 14,200 feet at about 7 p.m. June 10.  

They are able to contact family and a few friends directly with their cellular phone, although the connection is sometimes very clear and at other times is not good.

McPheeters, the expedtion team leader, reports "everyone is doing well, and everyone is still excited." 

Bezema, the lead climber, echos McPheeter's sentiments upon reaching advance base camp by saying that "everything is fine, everyone is in good health. The sun is shining today. Snowstorm Wednesday but Thursday is superb!" 

After resting last Monday, the team carried supplies up the steep "Motorcycle Hill" on June 8 above their 11,000-foot camp and cached them at "Squirrel Point" before retreating back. Snowstorms and white-out conditions prevented them from moving June 9. With the weather improving again Thursday, they proceeded beyond "the Windy Corner" at 13,500 feet to advance base camp at 14,200 feet. Thursday, they plan to either rest or retrieve their cache at "Squirrel Point" and return to advance base camp. 

The move from 11,000 feet to 14,200 feet is usually one of the most demanding of the trip because of the elevation gain of over 3,000 feet, the difficulties presented by "Motorcycle Hill", and the often hazardous conditions at "The Windy Corner." Also, it is usually the jump from 11,000 feet to 14,000 feet where the cold and altitude begin to take effect. 

O'Donnell, the team's medical technician, mentioned that the weather has been unseasonably warm during the day, but cold at night and all climbers are suffering from "a little frostbite." 

The weather forecast calls for high pressure and fair weather until Sunday. The team is now half way to the summit, and still one day ahead of their planned itinerary.

Kent O'Donnell, in a brief phone conversation with his father, reports that the team visited "The Edge of the World" Sunday. This is a spectacular overlook about a quarter of a mile south of advance base camp at 14,200 feet. It is a popular side excursion for climbers with a magnificent view down a 4,700 foot cliff to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. 

O'Donnell also said that the team is experiencing some symptoms of AMS, or acute mountain sickness, which is common within the first 24 hours of reaching advance base camp.  

About 30 percent of all climbers on Denali suffer symptoms of AMS when they attain this altitude within the first week, and it usually begins to decrease in severity in about the three days. The primary cause is believed to be the direct effect on the brain of low oxygen levels and changes in blood circulation at high altitude.  

Common symptoms include a headache, dizziness, fatigue, dry cough, loss of appetite, disturbed sleep, fluid retention, and nausea. AMS can be an early warning sign of more serious altitude illnesses, so it is watched carefully. 

The team prepared for this eventuality by acquiring the recommended prescriptions and Kent has had training specifically in the treatment of high altitude illnesses. 

The team intends to stay one more day at adavnce base camp before beginning to move to high camp at 17,200 feet. The next stage is where the real climbing begins.


 

EDITOR'S NOTE: Steve Evans lives in Utah and owns Cops on Top, Inc. in West Jordan, Utah.