Denali 1999 Expedition Itinerary

1999 Denali Expedition Climbing Itinerary

The Cops on Top 1999 Denali Expedition will attempt to reach the summit of Mount McKinley (Denali) via the popular West Buttress Route. The team will error on the side of caution in its plans and preparations. While the objective is to stand on the top of North America and return safely, it is their intention to not allow extended periods of extreme weather or diminishing supplies to compromise their goal or their safety.

This team does not underestimate the severe reputation of this mountain nor will they allow overconfidence in their abilities. Their climbing itinerary calls for a moderate pace, ample supplies, several emergency caches, and a wide window of opportunity.

Their targeted Summit Day is Father's Day, 20 June 1999.

The Expedition Summary below is their overall plan, and the following Detailed Itinerary provides a map of the West Buttress Route and a daily glimpse of what they will most likely experience.

RETURN TO DENALI EXPEDITION HOME PAGE Expedition Itinerary developed by:

www.backcountry-experience.com

Expedition Summary (West Buttress Route):
16.5 miles from Kahiltna Base Camp to South Summit

49.5 total expedition miles (33 miles on siege-style ascent, 16.5 miles on descent).

13,120ft elevation gain

21,300 ft total elevation gain (8,180ft due to siege-style ascent/retreat)

25 total Expedition Days

20 Climbing Days, including the following 7 planned rest days:

Climbing Day 5 at Camp III (11,000ft)
Climbing Day 9 at Camp IV (14,200ft)
Climbing Day 11 at Camp IV (14,200ft)
Climbing Days 15-18 at Camp V (17,200ft). These are also possible summit days.

6 Camps (plus 2 Alternative Camps at intermediate cache locations):

Base Camp: Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp (7,200ft)
Camp I: Ski Hill (7,800ft), established on Climbing Day 1
Camp II: Upper Kahiltna Glacier (9,700ft), established on Climbing Day 2
Camp III: Motorcycle Hill (11,000ft), established on Climbing Day 4

Alternative Camp I: Windy Corner (13,500ft)

Camp IV: Advanced Base Camp (14,200ft), established on Climbing Day 7

Alternative Camp II: Headwall Ridge (16,200ft)

Camp V: High Camp (17,200ft), established on Climbing Day 12

2 Reserve Caches:

Emergency Cache I: 4-6 days & emergency supplies at Kahiltna Base Camp (7,200ft)
Emergency Cache II: 2 days at Camp III (11,000ft), and leave snowshoes/skis

2 possible side excursions (consider these their "vacations" from the expedition):

Climbing Day 3: Kahiltna Dome (12,535ft) acclimatization/conditioning climb
Climbing Day 9: “Edge of the World” overlooking the 4,700ft cliff face to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, 0.25 miles south of Advanced Base Camp

Denali 1999 Expedition Detailed Itinerary Map of West Buttress Route

(Photo: Bradford Washburn ) To quickly return to the map from the itinerary, click on the highligted links. Simply press your "Back" button to return to your place in viewing the itinerary.

Day	Date	Objective	Description of Activities	Common Hazards
	1 June	Arrive in Anchorage, Alaska	Team members meet and review expedition plans together. Organize last minute details for the following day to ensure a timely departure.
	2 June	Anchorage to Talkeetna	Purchase food and last minute supplies. Drive to Talkeetna. Check in with air service for departure time to Kahiltna Base Camp.
	3 June	Talkeetna to Kahiltna Base Camp	Register with Denali National Park Service. Organize gear at air service for flight to Base Camp. Complete fuel card. Fill water bottles. Dress for glacier. Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp. Register with base camp manager. Collect fuel.
	4 June	Kahiltna Base Camp (7,200ft)	Practice crevasse rescue techniques. Go to bed early. Leave Emergency Cache I with 4-6 days extra food & supplies.
1	5 June	Kahiltna Base Camp (7,200ft) to Camp I (7,800ft)	Leave base camp by 3:00am & travel at night. Single-carry to Camp I, arriving by 10:30am. Set up camp. Probably build half-height snow walls for sufficient wind protection.	Heat, sunburn, dehydration. Soft snow. Largest crevasses and snow bridges of entire route.
2	6 June	Camp I (7,800ft) to Camp II on Upper Kahiltna Glacier (9,700ft)	Carry and cache supplies. Travel by night, wanding route well. Return to Camp I.	Heat, soft snow. Poor weather, high winds. Weather worsens as elevation gains, and white-out storm conditions expected.
3	7 June	Camp I (7,800ft) to Camp II (9,700ft)	Move camp to Camp II. Retrieve wands. Set up camp, and build fortified snow walls. If time and weather permit, side excursion to climb Kahiltna Dome (12,525ft).	Repeated from previous day
4	8 June	Camp II (9,700ft) to Camp III (11,000ft)	Single-carry to Camp III. Set up camp. Or, perform a double carry, with Team 1 retrieving supplies from Camp II while Team 2 establishes Camp III.	Weather. Avalanche debris zones. A critical near 90 degree turn due north is needed at approximately 10,800ft to locate camp. It can be impossible to find during a white-out.
5	9 June	Camp III (11,000ft)	Rest day. Leave Emergency Cache II with 1-2 days extra food & supplies. Also, team will cache snowshoes & skis at this point	Hidden crevasses, icefall, seracs, and slab avalanches. Possible pulmonary edema. Camp overcrowding possible if poor weather conditions are at "Windy Corner".
6	10 June	Camp III (11,000ft) to "Windy Corner" (13,500ft)	Carry to Windy Corner and cache supplies. Return to Camp III. This may be a possible Alternative Camp.	Extreme wind conditions with gusts frequently from 60 to 100mph. Heavy crevasse fields with a high risk of glacial advancement and collapsing bergschrunds. Steep, icy slopes and the most dangerous exposure of the entire route. There is a serious threat of rockfall and snow avalanches. *The team must avoid traversing the Windy Corner in stormy conditions.*
7	11 June	Camp III (11,000ft) to Camp IV (14,200ft) *Advance Base Camp*	Carry to 14,200ft and establish Advance Base Camp.	Weather conditions usually improve at 14,200ft from 11,000ft. Dangers are repeated from the previous day.
8	12 June	Camp IV (14,200ft) to Windy Corner (13,500ft)	Descend to retrieve cache at Windy Corner. Return to Camp IV.	Repeated from previous day.
9	13 June	Camp IV (14,200ft)	Rest day. Possible excursion to the “Edge of the World”.	Strong winds and/or heavy snowfall possible. Temperatures commonly drop to -20F. Altitude sickness, with AMS common in first 24 hours. There is only a remote chance of avalanche, but roped travel outside of camp and wanded areas is recommended due to crevasse danger.
10	14 June	Camp IV (14,200ft) to Headwall Ridge (16,200ft)	Carry to ridge above the Headwall and establish a deep cache to protect against to wind erosion. This may be an alternative camp. Return to Camp IV.	Snow and ice face with angles up to 55 degrees. Slab avalanches. Crevasses between 14,300ft and 15,500ft elevation. Crowding on fixed lines due to traffic, or crampon and ascender jamming.
11	15 June	Camp IV (14,200ft)	Rest day.	Repeated from cautions at Camp IV.
12	16 June	Camp IV (14,200ft) to Camp V (17,200ft) *High Camp*	Climb and establish High Camp. High wall fortification around camp is necessary. This camp is the most difficult and exhausting for the team to build.	High Exposure on ridgeline from 16,200ft to 17,200ft. Wind, falls & frostbite. *The team should not attempt this stage in stormy conditions.*
13	17 June	Camp V (17,200ft)	Rest day at High Camp.	Altitude, lack of oxygen. Extreme cold, dry air, high winds.
14	18 June	Camp V (17,200ft) to Headwall Ridge (16,200ft)	Descend to retrieve cache from 16,200ft. Return to Camp V. It is possible to summit on this day, but the team may retrieve the cache as a precaution for an extended stay at High Camp.	Repeated from 2 previous days.
15	19 June	Camp V (17,200ft)	Rest day. Optional Summit Day.	Repeated from previous day.
16	20 June	Camp V (17,200ft) to Summit (20,320ft)	Summit Day. Optional rest day, depending on weather & physical condition.	There are few predictable signs of worsening weather. Weather conditions are monitored closely, and care is taken to notice lenticular clouds forming over nearby Mount Foraker. Summit Day is usually the longest, most exhausting n the mountain, taking over 12 hours to reach the summit in three stages. Prepare for a possible bivouac. Anchor well, wand route, and exercise care on the descent.
17	21 June	Option: Summit, rest, or descend.	Summit Day. Optional rest day, depending on weather & physical condition.	Repeated from previous day.
18	22 June	Option: Summit, rest, or descend.	Summit Day. Optional rest day, depending on weather & physical condition.	Repeated from previous day.
19	23 June	Camp V (17,200ft) to either Advance Base Camp (14,200ft) or Camp III (11,000ft).	Descend safely.
20	24 June	Descend to Kahiltna Base Camp (7,800ft).	Retrieve emergency caches at 11,000ft and at Base Camp
	25 June	Kahiltna Base Camp to Talkeetna	*CELEBRATE!*

RETURN TO DENALI EXPEDITION HOME PAGE